Asaoya Yaichi

タグ: Aogami Super

  • Choosing Your First Japanese Knife: 5 Essential Lessons from a Chef

    Choosing Your First Japanese Knife: 5 Essential Lessons from a Chef

    Ishizuchi Kanamono Manufactory

    Choosing your first Japanese knife can be confusing. There are so many steels, shapes, sizes, brands and price ranges that it is easy to spend hours researching and still not know what to buy.

    So let me make my answer simple.

    If you are buying your first Japanese knife for general home cooking, I would start by looking at a 180mm Santoku or a 210mm Gyuto, preferably in an easy-to-maintain stainless steel such as VG10 or Ginsan.

    That does not mean these are the “best” Japanese knives. It means they are practical places to start.

    Interestingly, more than 25 years ago, my own first Japanese knives were quite similar to what I would still recommend today.

    If you are looking for Japanese knives in Australia, you can also explore our current range here:

    👉 Japanese Knives Australia — Explore our collection

    Choosing Your First Japanese Knife: My Own First Choice


    210mm Gyuto VG10 Polished Hammered 67 Layer Damascus Green Handle

    135mm Petty VG10 Polished Hammered 67 Layer Damascus Green Handle

    The first Japanese knives I bought for myself were a 210mm Damascus Gyuto and a Petty knife from the same series. If I remember correctly, the steel was probably VG10.

    At the time, I certainly did not understand knife steels the way I do now. I was not comparing every specification or thinking deeply about hardness, edge retention or steel composition.

    I simply bought knives that I wanted to use.

    Looking back after more than 25 years in professional kitchens, however, I think the basic combination actually made a lot of sense.

    A 210mm Gyuto can handle meat, fish and vegetables. The Petty takes care of smaller and more detailed jobs. Between those two knives, you can handle a huge amount of everyday kitchen work.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: 探究 Tankyū | What Does VG10 Actually Mean?

    Should Your First Japanese Knife Be a Gyuto or Santoku?


    210mm Gyuto Ginsan Nashiji Forged Magnolia Octagonal Handle Buffalo Horn Ferrule

    180mm Santoku Ginsan Nashiji Forged Magnolia Octagonal Handle Buffalo Horn

    For someone choosing their first Japanese knife, this is probably one of the most useful questions to answer.

    If you have enough bench space and are comfortable with a slightly longer blade, I think a 210mm Gyuto is an excellent starting point. The extra blade length becomes especially useful when cutting larger pieces of meat, fish or vegetables, because you can use a longer cutting stroke.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: [Gyuto vs Santoku — Which Japanese Knife Is Right for You?]

    For a smaller home kitchen, or if 210mm simply feels too large, I would look at a 180mm Santoku.

    A Santoku is compact, comfortable and capable of handling meat, fish and vegetables. For many home cooks, it may be all the knife they really need.

    Neither one is automatically better.

    The question is which one makes more sense in your kitchen.

    Choosing Your First Japanese Knife Steel


    180mm Santoku Aogami #2 Green Micarta Handle with Turquoise Spacer

    165mm Santoku A10 Damascus Black & Red Octagonal Handle

    180mm Santoku SG2 Rosewood Octagonal Handle

    Steel names can make buying a Japanese knife unnecessarily intimidating.

    VG10, Ginsan, Blue #2, Blue Super, SG2 — the list goes on.

    For a beginner, I would not start by asking which steel can become the sharpest.

    I would ask: How much maintenance do you want?

    For many first-time buyers, VG10 or Ginsan makes a lot of sense. Both offer excellent performance while being stainless and relatively easy to live with.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: [Japanese Knife Steel — Understanding the Different Steels Used in Japanese Knives]

    I personally enjoy carbon steels such as Blue #2, especially for certain cutting jobs. But carbon steel requires more attention to moisture and maintenance.

    That does not make it unsuitable for beginners. It simply means you should understand what you are buying.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK:Aogami and Shirogami | 7 Fascinating Things I Learned About Blue and White Paper Steel

    Choosing Your First Japanese Knife Does Not Mean Buying the Most Expensive One


    240mm Sujihiki VG10 Hammered 17 Layer Damascus Mahogany

    There is another reason I do not think beginners should become too obsessed with specifications or prestige.

    Years ago, I took one of my knives back to a knife shop to have it sharpened.

    The person there almost laughed at it.

    I still remember that experience.

    Maybe, from his perspective, it was not a particularly special knife. But I had bought it, used it professionally and relied on it to do my job.

    That experience taught me something I still believe today.

    A knife does not need to impress another knife enthusiast. It needs to work for the person holding it.

    After more than 25 years as a chef, I have used carbon steel, stainless steel, Yanagiba, Gyuto, Sujihiki and many other knives. Today, one of the knives I use most at the sushi counter is a VG10 Sujihiki.

    Not because VG10 is the most prestigious steel.

    It simply works for what I do.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: 真価 Shinka | 7 Powerful Truths About a New Japanese Knife’s Real Potential

    What About a Petty as Your Second Japanese Knife?


    120mm Petty Ginsan Nashiji Forged Magnolia Octagonal Handle Buffalo Horn Ferrule

    Once you have your main knife, my next choice would probably be a Petty.

    A Petty around 120–135mm is useful for smaller ingredients and detailed preparation where a 180mm or 210mm knife feels unnecessarily large.

    Interestingly, this is also what I did with my first Japanese knives: a Gyuto and a Petty.

    I did not understand it this way at the time, but looking back, they complemented each other extremely well.

    My Advice for Choosing Your First Japanese Knife

    After more than 25 years in professional kitchens, my advice is actually simpler than it would have been when I was younger.

    For general home cooking, start with a 180mm Santoku or 210mm Gyuto.

    If you want easy maintenance, look seriously at VG10 or Ginsan.

    Then, if you want a second knife, consider a 120–135mm Petty.

    If you mainly prepare vegetables, a Nakiri may make more sense. If you regularly slice fish or meat in long clean strokes, you may eventually want to explore a Sujihiki.

    But you do not need to start there.

    When choosing your first Japanese knife, do not worry too much about owning the knife with the highest hardness, the most expensive steel or the most impressive specifications.

    Start with a knife that fits your kitchen and the food you actually cook.

    More than 25 years after buying my first 210mm Gyuto and Petty, that is still where I would begin.

    👉 Explore more:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au

    👉 Visit our online store:
    https://asaoyayaichi.com.au

    Thank you for reading, and I hope to see you again in the next story.

    —————————————————​

    Where to See and Buy Our Knives

    Our Partner Stores

    Chanoyu — Nerang, Gold Coast

    Visit Chanoyu and See Our Japanese Knives

    If you are on the Gold Coast, we would love you to visit Chanoyu, a Japanese café in Nerang where you can see and purchase a selection of Asaoya Yaichi knives in person.

    Chanoyu is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy Japanese-inspired food, excellent matcha, coffee and handmade desserts. Its warm, peaceful atmosphere makes it a pleasure to visit, whether you are stopping in for breakfast, lunch or something sweet. We are delighted that our knives have a place there.

    Visit Chanoyu: Shop 6A, 54–58 Nerang Street, Nerang QLD 4211

    Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 7:00 am–2:00 pm; closed Sunday

    Website: https://www.chanoyucafe.com/

    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chanoyugc/

    The selection of knives on display may change. If you are interested in a particular Asaoya Yaichi knife, please contact us through https://asaoyayaichi.com.au before visiting, and we will help you check whether it is available at Chanoyu.

  • Carbon Steel Japanese Knives: 5 Powerful Lessons from My Real Experience

    Carbon Steel Japanese Knives: 5 Powerful Lessons from My Real Experience


    180mm Santoku Aogami #2 Green Micarta Handle with Turquoise Spacer

    Carbon Steel Japanese Knives are often described as difficult to maintain. They can rust, they react with certain foods, and compared with stainless steel, they certainly require a little more attention.

    But after more than 25 years working as a professional chef, I don’t think carbon steel knives are as difficult to live with as many people imagine.

    I currently use Aogami Super, Aogami #2 and VG10 knives in my daily work, and my experience with each one has been quite different. For me, the important thing is not trying to find a completely maintenance-free knife. It is understanding the steel you are using and learning how to look after it.

    If you are looking for Japanese knives in Australia, you can also explore our collection here:

    👉 https://asaoyayaichi.com.au

    Carbon Steel Japanese Knives Can Rust — But That Is Not the Whole Story

    Ishizuchi Kanamono Manufactory

    There is no point pretending otherwise: Carbon Steel Japanese Knives can rust faster than stainless steel.

    I also feel that once a carbon steel knife has developed rust, that particular knife can sometimes seem more likely to rust again.

    However, that does not mean carbon steel is constantly difficult to maintain.

    One knife I currently use regularly is an Aogami Super （青紙スーパー）sujihiki. I use it for fish, meat and vegetables, and sometimes even acidic ingredients such as lemons and limes.

    My routine is extremely simple.

    After using it, I wash it with water and immediately wipe it dry with a towel.

    That’s basically it.

    Despite using it constantly, rust has not been a major problem.

    Perhaps the fact that I use this knife almost every day helps. It is regularly being used, washed, dried and checked rather than being left somewhere for weeks. I cannot say that daily use itself prevents rust, but in my experience, regular care makes carbon steel much easier to manage.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knife Patina article

    Understanding the difference between normal patina and harmful rust is also important when living with carbon steel.

    My Aogami #2 Knife Is a Different Story


    180mm Kiritsuke Aogami #2 Kurouchi Walnut Octagonal Handle

    My Aogami #2 kurouchi gyuto behaves differently.

    This knife has rusted before, and since then I have found that if I use it, wipe away the moisture and simply leave it for a long period, rust can return.

    So I treat this knife differently.

    When necessary, I deal with the rust through sharpening and use Sabitoru to remove surface rust. If I know I will not use the knife for a while, I apply a thin layer of camellia oil before storing it.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Sabitoru Fine article

    Sabitoru has become a useful part of my maintenance routine when small areas of rust appear.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Camellia Oil article

    Camellia oil is another simple option when storing carbon steel knives for longer periods.

    This is why I don’t believe owning Carbon Steel Japanese Knives needs to be stressful. Once you have a basic maintenance kit and understand what your knife needs, caring for it becomes part of owning and using the knife.

    Carbon Steel Japanese Knives vs VG10 in Daily Use


    240mm Sujihiki VG10 Hammered 17 Layer Damascus Mahogany

    The VG10 sujihiki I currently use is completely different when it comes to rust.

    Honestly, rust is something I barely think about with this knife.

    But I still treat it almost exactly the same way as my carbon steel knives.

    Use it. Wash it. Dry it.

    That’s all.

    Stainless steel gives you considerably more freedom when it comes to corrosion resistance, but I still don’t believe that means you should leave a good knife wet or dirty.

    There is also another side to stainless steel maintenance that I have noticed during my career.

    Because stainless steel is so easy to live with, it can be tempting to keep using the knife without sharpening it until it becomes seriously dull.

    That can create another problem.

    A Rust-Resistant Knife Is Not a Maintenance-Free Knife


    135mm Petty VG10 Polished Hammered 67 Layer Damascus Green Handle

    In my experience, when some stainless steels become extremely dull, bringing the edge back can feel harder than maintaining the knife regularly.

    This is where people can make a mistake.

    When a knife is not getting sharp quickly enough, there is a temptation to raise the sharpening angle and concentrate only on creating a sharp edge.

    You may get an edge again, but over time the geometry behind that edge can become thicker. Eventually, the knife may feel sharp at the very edge but still struggle to move smoothly through food.

    This connects directly with something I recently wrote about: knife thinning.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knife Thinning article

    Thinning is not simply about making the edge sharp. It is about maintaining the geometry behind the cutting edge so the knife can continue cutting the way it should.

    That is why regular maintenance matters whether your knife is carbon steel or stainless steel.

    Are Carbon Steel Japanese Knives Really Difficult?


    210mm Sujihiki Aogami #2 Kurouchi Magnolia Handle

    After using different steels professionally, my answer is no.

    Carbon steel requires more awareness of moisture and rust. Stainless steel such as VG10 makes that part much easier.

    But neither should be neglected.

    For me, Carbon Steel Japanese Knives are not difficult knives. They are knives that you need to understand and learn how to live with.

    Wash them after use. Dry them properly. Deal with rust early if it appears. Use camellia oil when storing carbon steel for longer periods. And don’t wait until any knife becomes completely dull before thinking about sharpening.

    That small amount of care can make a very big difference.

    For anyone exploring Japanese Knives Australia, I believe the question should not simply be, “Which steel is best?”

    A better question is:

    Which steel suits the way I cook, sharpen and care for my knives?

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knives Australia: 5 Powerful Choices I Would Make After 25 Years as a Professional Chef

    There is no single steel that is perfect for everyone. Understanding how you actually use your knife is far more important than simply choosing carbon steel or stainless steel.

    👉 Explore more:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au

    👉 Visit our online store:
    https://asaoyayaichi.com.au

    Thank you for reading, and I hope to see you again in the next story.

    —————————————————​

    Where to See and Buy Our Knives

    Our Partner Stores

    Chanoyu — Nerang, Gold Coast

    Visit Chanoyu and See Our Japanese Knives

    If you are on the Gold Coast, we would love you to visit Chanoyu, a Japanese café in Nerang where you can see and purchase a selection of Asaoya Yaichi knives in person.

    Chanoyu is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy Japanese-inspired food, excellent matcha, coffee and handmade desserts. Its warm, peaceful atmosphere makes it a pleasure to visit, whether you are stopping in for breakfast, lunch or something sweet. We are delighted that our knives have a place there.

    Visit Chanoyu: Shop 6A, 54–58 Nerang Street, Nerang QLD 4211

    Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 7:00 am–2:00 pm; closed Sunday

    Website: https://www.chanoyucafe.com/

    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chanoyugc/

    The selection of knives on display may change. If you are interested in a particular Asaoya Yaichi knife, please contact us through https://asaoyayaichi.com.au before visiting, and we will help you check whether it is available at Chanoyu.

  • Japanese Knife Thinning: 5 Powerful Lessons I Learned After Years of Sharpening

    Japanese Knife Thinning: 5 Powerful Lessons I Learned After Years of Sharpening


    Ishizuchi Kanamono Manufactory 

    Japanese Knife Thinning is something I never thought deeply about, even after more than 25 years working as a professional chef.

    I have sharpened knives throughout my career, but there is something I have noticed many times, particularly with stainless steel knives I have used for years.

    The edge can feel sharp after sharpening, yet somehow the knife does not pass through food as easily as it once did.

    I once borrowed a colleague’s knife at work and was genuinely surprised by how easily it cut. My own knife was sharp too, so why did his knife move through food so much better?

    I had some ideas, but I could not properly explain the reason. So I decided to research Japanese Knife Thinning.

    👉 Looking for Japanese knives in Australia? Explore our collection here:
    https://asaoyayaichi.com.au/japanese-knives-australia

    Japanese Knife Thinning Is Not the Same as Sharpening

    Asaoya Yaichi

    For most of my career, my main purpose when sharpening has been simple: make the knife sharp again.

    Especially at work, I want to finish sharpening quickly and get back to cooking.

    I also know one of my bad habits.

    When I want to create an edge quickly, I sometimes raise the sharpening angle slightly. It reaches the cutting edge faster and gets the job done.

    And I will admit another one: sometimes I am lazy about flattening my whetstone.

    I know I should do it regularly, but knowing that and actually doing it every time are different things.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Why Flattening Your Whetstone Matters

    What I had not fully understood was that making the cutting edge sharp and maintaining the overall cutting geometry of a knife are two different things.

    As a knife is repeatedly sharpened, the cutting edge gradually moves higher into the blade, where the steel is generally thicker.

    The edge can still be extremely sharp, but the steel immediately behind that edge can become relatively thick.

    That thickness creates resistance once the edge has entered the food.

    Why Japanese Knife Thinning Started Making Sense to Me


    240mm Sujihiki VG10 Hammered 17 Layer Damascus Mahogany

    This helped explain my experience with my colleague’s knife.

    What surprised me was not simply the sharpness of his edge. It was how easily the entire blade travelled through the ingredient.

    That is where blade geometry becomes important.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knife Shapes: 5 Powerful Lessons From 25 Years in Professional Kitchens

    A sharp edge starts the cut, but the geometry behind that edge affects what happens next.

    This is also why I started thinking about the difference between some of my stainless knives and the Aogami Super sujihiki I currently use.

    Japanese Knife Thinning and My Aogami Super Sujihiki


    210mm Sujihiki Aogami #2 Kurouchi Magnolia Handle

    With some stainless knives I have owned for years, I have clearly experienced that feeling of the knife becoming harder to push through food.

    My current Aogami Super sujihiki feels different.

    It seems to form an edge quite easily on the stone. I do not need to raise the sharpening angle very much to get the edge I want, so I naturally sharpen it at a relatively low angle.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knife Steel: 5 Powerful Lessons After 25 Years in Professional Kitchens

    However, I do not think it would be correct to simply say this happens because Aogami Super is better than stainless steel.

    Steel type, hardness, original blade geometry, thickness behind the edge, heat treatment and my own sharpening technique can all influence what I feel.

    I have used VG10 extensively throughout my career, for example, and I still consider it an excellent practical knife steel.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: VG10 Japanese Knife article

    The difference may partly be the knife itself—and partly the way I sharpen it.

    Japanese Knife Thinning — So How Do You Fix the Problem?

    This was the part I really wanted to understand.

    If the edge is sharp but the knife has become too thick behind the edge, simply sharpening the cutting edge again does not remove that thickness.

    The basic solution is thinning.

    Instead of sharpening only at the normal edge angle, the blade is placed against the whetstone at a much lower angle. Steel is gradually removed from the area immediately behind the cutting edge.

    The purpose is not simply to make another sharp edge. It is to reduce unnecessary thickness and restore a thinner cutting geometry.

    After thinning, the actual cutting edge can then be sharpened normally again.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Aogami Super / Carbon Steel article

    However, this is also something I would approach carefully.

    Removing too much steel can change the geometry of the knife. Thinning can also scratch the blade face and alter its original finish. With an expensive Japanese knife, working slowly—or having an experienced professional sharpener do the work—may be safer than aggressively removing steel.

    A Flat Whetstone Matters More Than I Thought

    Why Flattening Your Whetstone Matters

    There was another slightly uncomfortable answer waiting for me.

    The whetstone should be flat.

    When trying to thin a knife at a very low and consistent angle, a dished stone makes controlling the contact between the blade and stone more difficult.

    So perhaps my habit of occasionally avoiding stone flattening was part of the answer all along.

    Prevention matters too.

    Rather than repeatedly increasing the sharpening angle simply because I want to finish quickly, maintaining a lower, consistent angle where appropriate may help preserve the knife’s geometry for longer.

    That does not mean every knife should be sharpened at the lowest possible angle. Different knives, steels and uses require different approaches. But continually making a steeper secondary edge without considering the thickness behind it can eventually change how the knife moves through food.

    What Japanese Knife Thinning Taught Me About Sharpness

    After researching this, I realised something surprisingly simple:

    Sharpening restores the edge. Thinning restores the geometry behind the edge.

    For years, I knew that some knives felt sharp but somehow did not cut like they used to. I also knew that I sometimes sharpened too quickly and occasionally neglected flattening my stones.

    Perhaps I already knew part of the answer. I just did not always want to do it.

    Even after more than 25 years in professional kitchens, there are still things about knives that I do not fully understand.

    That is exactly why I enjoy researching them.

    For anyone looking at Japanese knives in Australia, learning how to maintain the knife over many years can be just as important as choosing the steel, shape or handle when you first buy it.

    👉 Explore more:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au

    👉 Visit our online store:
    https://asaoyayaichi.com.au

    Thank you for reading, and I hope to see you again in the next story.

    —————————————————​

    Where to See and Buy Our Knives

    Our Partner Stores

    Chanoyu — Nerang, Gold Coast

    Visit Chanoyu and See Our Japanese Knives

    If you are on the Gold Coast, we would love you to visit Chanoyu, a Japanese café in Nerang where you can see and purchase a selection of Asaoya Yaichi knives in person.

    Chanoyu is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy Japanese-inspired food, excellent matcha, coffee and handmade desserts. Its warm, peaceful atmosphere makes it a pleasure to visit, whether you are stopping in for breakfast, lunch or something sweet. We are delighted that our knives have a place there.

    Visit Chanoyu: Shop 6A, 54–58 Nerang Street, Nerang QLD 4211

    Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 7:00 am–2:00 pm; closed Sunday

    Website: https://www.chanoyucafe.com/

    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chanoyugc/

    The selection of knives on display may change. If you are interested in a particular Asaoya Yaichi knife, please contact us through https://asaoyayaichi.com.au before visiting, and we will help you check whether it is available at Chanoyu.

  • Japanese Knife Steel: 5 Powerful Lessons I Learned After 25 Years as a Chef

    Japanese Knife Steel: 5 Powerful Lessons I Learned After 25 Years as a Chef

    Ishizuchi Kanamono Manufactory

    For most of my 25 years working as a professional chef, I honestly did not care much about Japanese knife steel.

    I knew my knives felt different, but I rarely thought about the reason. Some held their edge longer. Some could lose their initial sharpness but still somehow get me through a busy service. Others became frustrating once the edge started to fade. Some were easy to sharpen, while others required more patience. And, of course, some rusted much more easily than others.

    I noticed all of these differences long before I understood the steels behind them.

    It was only after starting Asaoya Yaichi and learning more seriously about Japanese knives that those years of experience began to connect with what I was learning about steel.

    If you are looking for Japanese knives in Australia, understanding these differences can make choosing your next knife much easier.

    👉 Visit the Asaoya Yaichi online store to explore our Japanese knives in Australia.

    Japanese Knife Steel Was Never My Priority in the Kitchen


    165mm Santoku A10 Damascus Black & Red Octagonal Handle

    As a working chef, I was interested in practical results.

    Does it cut well? How long can I use it before sharpening? Can I keep using it when the edge starts to fade? How quickly can I bring the edge back?

    I did not stand in the kitchen thinking about carbon percentages or steel specifications.

    Looking back, however, I realise I had been learning about Japanese knife steel through my hands for years without knowing it.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Hand-Forged vs Machine-Made Knives

    Learning more about knife making also taught me that steel is only part of the story. Heat treatment, blade geometry, sharpening and construction all influence how a knife performs.

    Learning Japanese Knife Steel Finally Explained My Preferences


    180mm Santoku Aogami #2 Green Micarta Handle with Turquoise Spacer

    Once I started selling Japanese knives, I needed to understand what I was actually selling.

    That changed the way I looked at my own knives.

    Suddenly, experiences from many years in professional kitchens started making sense. Today I know that I personally enjoy using Aogami #2 and Aogami Super. They suit the way I work and, importantly, the way I sharpen.

    That does not mean I believe they are the best steels for everyone.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Is an Expensive Japanese Knife Really Worth It?

    Specifications and price can tell us something about a knife, but they cannot completely describe what it will feel like after months or years of real kitchen use.

    Choosing Japanese Knife Steel for Japanese Knives in Australia


    210mm Gyuto Ginsan Nashiji Forged Magnolia Octagonal Handle Buffalo Horn Ferrule

    This becomes particularly important when choosing Japanese knives in Australia.

    As a professional chef, I use my knives constantly. With carbon steel, I wash the blade, dry it and continue using it regularly. Patina develops, but personally I have not found rust particularly difficult to manage during everyday professional use.

    Home use can be very different.

    You might use a carbon-steel knife tonight and then not touch it again for several days. If moisture remains on the blade during that time, rust can appear surprisingly quickly.

    That is one reason stainless steels such as VG10 or Ginsan can make a lot of sense for people who want a Japanese knife without constantly thinking about maintenance.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knife Rust Removal: 5 Powerful Reasons I Keep a Sabitoru Fine in My Knife Kit

    Stainless does not mean completely rust-proof, but it is generally more forgiving.

    This is also why there is no single answer when someone asks me which steel they should choose.

    Japanese Knife Steel and What I Feel at the Sharpening Stone


    180mm Kiritsuke Aogami #2 Kurouchi Walnut Octagonal Handle

    There is another difference I have noticed over the years: sharpening.

    This is my personal experience rather than a rule for every knife, but when some stainless knives become very dull, I find they can become frustrating.

    I can usually bring them back to a reasonably sharp edge without too much trouble. But getting that edge back to the extremely sharp condition I personally want can sometimes require patience.

    With Aogami carbon steels, I often feel that I can bring the edge back more naturally.

    Of course, this depends on much more than simply whether a knife is carbon or stainless. Hardness, heat treatment, blade geometry and sharpening stones all matter.

    That is why I prefer talking about what I have actually experienced rather than saying one steel is universally better.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: 切付 | Japanese Knife for Chefs: 1 Powerful Choice After 25 Years in Professional Kitchens

    Japanese Knives Australia: Steel Is Only the Beginning


    165mm Usuba A8 Hammered Damascus Black & Red Octagonal Handle

    If you are searching for Japanese knives in Australia, I would not start by asking, “What is the best steel?”

    I would start with different questions.

    How often do you cook? Do you sharpen your own knives? Are you comfortable drying a carbon-steel blade immediately after use? Do you want something easy to maintain? What shape and length actually suit the food you prepare?

    Understanding Japanese knife steel helps answer those questions, but steel should not become the only reason you choose a knife.

    I recently wrote about the Japanese knives I would personally choose after more than 25 years in professional kitchens. That article looks beyond steel and considers the complete knife from the perspective of actual use.

    👉 IMPORTANT INTERNAL LINK: Japanese Knives Australia: 5 Powerful Choices I Would Make After 25 Years as a Professional Chef

    For me, that is the real value of finally learning about steel.

    Twenty-five years ago, I could tell you whether I liked a knife. I just could not always explain why.

    Today, I understand much better why Aogami #2 and Aogami Super suit me, why stainless steel can be a better choice for many people, and why the most impressive steel name does not automatically make the best knife for the person holding it.

    If you are choosing Japanese knives in Australia, learn about the steel—but choose the knife according to the way you actually cook.

    👉 Explore more:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au

    👉 Visit our online store:
    https://asaoyayaichi.com.au

    Thank you for reading, and I hope to see you again in the next story.

  • Aogami and Shirogami | 7 Fascinating Things I Learned About Blue and White Paper Steel

    Aogami and Shirogami | 7 Fascinating Things I Learned About Blue and White Paper Steel


    Kiritsuke Aogami #2 Kurouchi Walnut Octagonal Handle

    Aogami and Shirogami are two traditional Japanese carbon steels that I only started learning about after entering the Japanese knife business.

    I have worked as a professional chef for more than 25 years, but I have a confession to make.

    Until I started selling Japanese knives, I didn’t even know what Aogami and Shirogami were.

    To be honest, I didn’t know there were so many different types of stainless steel either. VG10, Ginsan, SG2… I had used knives for years without paying much attention to what the steel was actually called.

    And even now, I’m still learning what makes each steel different.

    As a chef, I had always judged a knife in a much simpler way. Does it cut well? How does it feel in my hand? How does it feel on the whetstone? And does it work well for the job I need it to do?

    Then, after starting my knife business, I kept seeing the words Aogami and Shirogami.

    Blue Paper Steel. White Paper Steel.

    And one day I thought:

    Why blue? Why white?

    I honestly had no idea.

    So I decided to look it up.

    1. Why Are Aogami and Shirogami Called Blue and White Paper Steel?

    Ishizuchi Kanamono Manufactory

    The answer was much simpler than I expected.

    The steel itself is not blue or white.

    The names Aogami and Shirogami come from the coloured paper traditionally used to distinguish different grades of Yasugi Specialty Steel.

    “Ao” means blue in Japanese, while “Shiro” means white.

    That is why Aogami became known as Blue Paper Steel and Shirogami as White Paper Steel.

    After more than 25 years of using knives, I had never once wondered about this.

    Sometimes the simplest questions are the ones we forget to ask.

    2. So, What Exactly Is Shirogami?

    Once I understood the name, the next question was obvious.

    What is actually different about the steel?

    Shirogami is a high-purity carbon steel with tightly controlled impurities. Its relatively simple composition allows it to take a very fine edge, and it has a strong reputation for responding beautifully to whetstones.

    Of course, it is still carbon steel.

    That means moisture, acidic foods and poor maintenance can cause discolouration and eventually rust.

    It can also develop a natural patina through normal use.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Read more about Japanese knife patina:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au/japanese-knife-patina/

    For someone used to stainless steel, this extra maintenance may seem inconvenient. For others, it is simply part of the character of a traditional carbon-steel knife.

    3. How Is Aogami Different from Shirogami?

    This is where things started getting more interesting for me.

    Aogami contains alloying elements such as chromium and tungsten in addition to carbon. These additions help increase wear resistance and edge retention.

    In simple terms, Aogami is designed to maintain its cutting edge well.

    The trade-off is that greater wear resistance can also mean more effort when sharpening compared with a simpler carbon steel such as Shirogami.

    Before starting a knife business, I never thought about knives in terms of chromium, tungsten or carbon percentages.

    I simply knew whether I liked using a knife or not.

    Learning about the steel has given me another way to understand some of those differences.

    4. Aogami #1, #2 and Aogami Super

    Then I discovered that Aogami itself was not just one steel.

    There is Aogami #1, Aogami #2 and Aogami Super.

    Very simply, the different grades have different carbon and alloy compositions. Aogami #1 has more carbon than #2, while Aogami Super uses additional alloying elements and is known for high hardness and excellent edge retention when properly heat treated.

    At first, it is tempting to think that a higher specification must automatically mean a better knife.

    But the more I learn about Japanese knives, the less I think that way.

    The steel is only one part of the story.

    Heat treatment, blade geometry, grinding, sharpening and the skill of the maker can all affect how the finished knife performs.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Read more about Japanese knife hardness and HRC:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au/japanese-knife-hardness-hrc/

    5. Shirogami Also Has Different Grades

    Then, of course, I learned that Shirogami also comes in different grades.

    Shirogami #1, #2 and #3 have different carbon contents, with #1 containing more carbon than #2 and #3 containing less.

    Again, I don’t think this means we can simply rank them from “best” to “worst.”

    This is something I have come to understand since entering the knife business.

    Two handmade Japanese knives using the same steel can still feel very different.

    The maker, heat treatment, thickness, blade geometry, sharpening and even the intended purpose of the knife all matter.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Why no two handmade Japanese knives are exactly the same:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au/handmade-japanese-knives/

    6. Is Aogami Better Than Shirogami?


    180mm Santoku Aogami #2 Green Micarta Handle with Turquoise Spacer

    This was probably my biggest question when I first started learning about Aogami and Shirogami.

    Which one is better?

    After looking into it, I think that may be the wrong question.

    Aogami is well known for edge retention and wear resistance. Shirogami is famous for its sharpening response and ability to take a very refined edge.

    But a knife is something we actually use.

    How often do you sharpen? What ingredients do you cut? How do you use your knife? Do you enjoy sharpening? How much maintenance are you comfortable with?

    And most importantly, how does the knife actually feel when you use it?

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Read more about Kireaji — the feeling of sharpness:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au/japanese-knife-sharpness/

    Specifications can explain part of a knife, but they cannot completely describe the experience of using one.

    7. What I Learned About Aogami and Shirogami

    The biggest thing I learned while researching Aogami and Shirogami was not actually about carbon percentages or alloying elements.

    It was how much I still have to learn.

    I have spent more than 25 years using knives professionally, but that does not mean I spent 25 years studying knife steel.

    I was a chef.

    I picked up a knife, used it, sharpened it, washed it, dried it and went back to work.

    Only after starting my knife business did I begin paying much more attention to the steels behind the knives.

    👉 INTERNAL LINK: Read more about Japanese knife balance:
    https://blog.asaoyayaichi.com.au/japanese-knife-balance/

    And I actually enjoy discovering these things now.

    Aogami. Shirogami. VG10. Ginsan. SG2.

    Names that once meant very little to me are gradually starting to make more sense.

    This time, it started with an extremely simple question.

    Why blue? Why white?

    Now I know.

    But learning about Aogami and Shirogami also reminded me that steel specifications are only part of what makes a Japanese knife interesting.

    The maker matters. Heat treatment matters. Geometry matters. Sharpening matters.

    And finally, the person holding the knife matters.

    So I don’t think we need to decide that Aogami is simply better than Shirogami, or vice versa.

    They are different steels with different characteristics.

    And I’m still learning about both.

    Maybe that is part of the fun.

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    Thank you for reading, and I hope to see you again in the next story.